The exo terra incubator is the best crested egg gecko eggs incubator on the market.
But, that’s not all. We are also teaching you how to incubate crested gecko eggs below.
This article is sharing for free the different methods that have worked well for many hobbyists.
What to buy:
- Superhatch (CHECK ON AMAZON) or
- Incubator (WHERE TO BUY)
- Digital Thermometer and Hygrometer combo (CHECK ON AMAZON)
- Deli Cups (CHECK ON AMAZON)
Best Incubator for Crested Gecko Eggs
Exo Terra Precision Incubator Pro for Reptile Terrariums
This is the incubator you should get for your gecko.
- Digital temperature and humidity control with an east to read screen.
- It features an accurate dimming and pulse proportional heating and humidifying combo
- Has double ventilation, rounded corners, and the fine foam insulation layer guarantees gradual airflow.
- Transparent lid supports easy monitoring of the incubation and hatching process without humidity or temperature loss.
- Insulating styrofoam
ALSO SEE: Best Incubator for Bantam Eggs
How to Hatch Crested Gecko Eggs
Preparing for eggs
If the substrate in the cage is paper, then collection will be easy.
Many breeder use a “breeding laybox” for convenience.
If you use coconut fiber or a similar soil substrate, then you will need to search the whole enclosure for eggs.
There are plenty of medias on the market.
Vermiculite and Raspashy superhatch are two of the most popular.
Superhatch is a calcined media with a high porosity for water retention. This media will change color based on the water quantity present, and can be reused if boiled.
You can moisten Superhatch by soaking the media and draining excess water. Depending on your environment and incubation container, the superhatch may need remoistening before the eggs hatch.
To do this, pour water down the side of the container, or transfer eggs to a holding container while re-soaking the superhatch.
Vermiculite is a classic incubation media, that has proven to prevent fungal and mold growth.
A lot of hobbyists use containers to incubate their eggs but we prefer using an incubator.
If you want to use plastic containers, ensure it is at least 16 oz deli-cup with 1.5-2 inches of incubation media.
Want to check the eggs at least once a week? Add small holes with a push pin for better ventilation.
How about checking the eggs once weekly? Use the deli cup without holes. Remember to use an unventilated lid for the deli-cup.
I recommend using an un-modified plastic shoebox (with a latching top) and 2-3 inches of Superhatch. This provides lots of room for air and gas exchange by the eggs.
Gently take time and care to brush substrate aside in the laybox or enclosure as you dig for eggs.
Do it as if you’re an archaeologist. Geckos can lay between under cage décor and plants, so remember to check there too.
Make sure the incubation container is reader as you uncover the eggs.
I would prefer you lightly mark the upward side of the egg using a pencil.
Gently pick up the egg between two fingers and place it into the incubation media with the pencil mark up. Cap the container and wait
You can candle your egg as early as the first 24 hours after being layed.
Gently hold the eff in its un-rotated position and shine a bright, concentrated light to the side. Doing so in a dark area is more effective.
If you see a red “cheerio”, then you have a fertile egg. But, if you see nothing but pinkish or yellow fluid, then the egg may not be fertile.
But wait! Don’t throw it away. In fact, I would suggest you recheck the egg again in 72 hours to ensure there is no embryo before deciding to toss it.
Many hobbyists prefer not to candle eggs and incubate all eggs until they prove unviable by molding. If you do not feel comfortable with your candling ability, incubate the egg.
Incubators and temperature
Using incubators such as Exo Terra incubator helps cool incubation at 70 degrees, which is perfect for crested geckos.
Uisng homemade incubators can cause he temperature drops and spikes, resulting in the embryo loosing its life.
A lot of hobbyists believe that incubation temperature directly affects the morphology and time of the hatchling gecko.
Lower temperatures (68-74) extend incubation time, as much as doubling the number of days in the egg. With longer incubation times, the geckos hatch larger, with thick tails, larger tailpads, and more developed crests.
Higher temperatures (75-80) means less time developing in the egg. These hatchlings are often observed with smaller tail pads, less-developed crests and an overall smaller gecko.
Egg progress and complications:
It is normal for eggs to expand as the gecko embryo grows. Sometimes this can result in a leakage of the “pinch points”.
If this happens before hatching begins, then you should use a small piece of tissue to patch it.
However, if you notice mold begin to grow over the area or over the egg, then it means the egg is no longer viable and should be removed, along with the surrounding media.
Optionally, you may choose to incubate the molded egg separately until you are positive that it is no longer viable, or dispose of it.
Crested Gecko Egg Incubation Temperature
Room temperature is great for incubating gecko eggs. You can use temperatures between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit at the height of the breeding season. This temperature range will result in hatchlings emerging after 60 to 70 days during the warmer months, or up to 120 days as the days grow cooler.
Crested Gecko Egg Incubation Time
Crested gecko incubation time range from 60-120 days.
Are my Crested gecko eggs fertile or not?
Shine a light behind the eggs to see if there is a round red “bulls eye” shape, if there is, your egg is fertile. If there’s only a yellow/pink fluid then it could mean your egg is infertile.’
However, the general rule is to incubate until the egg either hatches or stinks.
What to do with Infertile Crested Gecko Eggs?
- Throw them away
- Bury them in your garden as manure.